Gluten Heaven in Żoliborz

Cała W Mące opens at 10, but the bakers start working already at 5 or 6 AM. – We have a very broad offer: rolls, breads, cakes, cookies. New baked goods are taken out of the oven all the time – be it challah, our famous black sesame epies, onion pies, or finally, the breads: rye bread, wheat and spelt bread or spelt bread. – Here, everything changes in a flash – we come up with something new all the time. If it is strawberry season, we make sweet sourdough rolls with strawberries. If it is asparagus time, we bake something with asparagus. It is never boring!, Walecka says and continues on presenting her all female baking crew – I employ only girls because I have good vibe working with them. It is not really about fighting the stereotype of a male baker. I have a solid team but I am also open to accepting new people for traineeships. Just to give you an example, Iwona who is with us right now, works at a modern art auction house on a daily basis. She decided she wants to learn something new and she has been with us for a week. I like sharing my knowledge because I learned the same way – I had traineeships in many wonderful places, Monika says. Indeed, she received her traineeship at San Francisco’s Tartine with one of the most famous bakers in the world Chad Robertson. – My husband got a job in San Francisco and we moved there for few years. I had a lot of free time to learn and take my passion of baking to a professional level, she explains.

cala w mace



Maurycy Gomulicki, an artist who lives in the same building as the bakery, designed the logo of Cała W Mące. The logo – a naked, plump mermaid, proudly wielding a baguette decorates the wall opposite the entrance. – I love Maurycy’s work so as soon as he popped in for the first time, I couldn’t help myself but ask him to design something for us. The chandelier and sconces with ears are from Yestersen interior design store. – It’s a 1960s Coco Chanel, regency style, Monika says proudly. – The rest of the interior is rather humble, simple shelves from Ikea, a plain table. I decided not to take a credit but rather buy the equipment gradually – she adds.


cala w mace

– I love Żoliborz and its wonderful community of neighbours. People are friendly and supportive. Our houses are not tall; everyone knows each other and often meet in a cafe or a grocery store, Monika admits and adds that for the love of Żoliborz she called one of the rolls Żoliborka. It has a triangular shape reminiscent of the district map. The wheat and rye bread is called Żywiciel (Eng. Breadwinner), and the whole rye bread Żniwiarz (Eng. Reaper).

This is an excerpt of a text by Monika Brzywczy from the new USTA Magazine. You can buy it HERE.

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