So close, with so much shared history, yet our relations with Lithuania are far from easy. Shortly after arriving, we discover that the Polish king Sigismund Augustus and his wife, the Lithuanian princess Barbara Radziwiłł, appear here in abundance. We’re referring to their joint portraits, which appear on mugs, pillows, and chocolates. This is the local version of Romeo and Juliet, and if we recall the story of the Polish king’s great love, but also the immense hostility of Bona Sforza and the Polish court toward the bride—who was a widow and not a virgin as the court had expected—and how conspiracies were hatched to prevent the marriage or to make it difficult afterward. When we recall this story of dramatic passion (filmed several times, including the memorable version starring Anna Dymna and Jerzy Zelnik), we realize that our relations with Lithuania have a bitter aftertaste, which was not improved by the post-war resettlements. Today we have a chance to see each other differently; although there is plenty of shared history in Vilnius at every turn, there are also completely new and fascinating threads.
Hinc itur ad astra
We had our first lunch in Vilnius at Augustin – and it was a bull’s-eye. A great location, with beautiful historic interiors that have been transformed into a modern dining space under the guidance of a skilled architect. A concrete ceiling, but with rounded arches, a wooden floor, raw walls, a modern giant chandelier imitating candlelight–everything here is well thought out, designed with respect for history. We feel as though we are in the rooms of a former monastery. The founder of Augustin is Vytautas Samavičius, one of the leading figures in contemporary Lithuanian cuisine, a multiple award winner who currently runs six restaurants: Monai in Klaipėda, Momo Grill in Klaipėda, Kaunas, and Vilnius, Augustin in Vilnius, and Brond in Vilnius. Each has a distinct character and concept, always tied to its location. Augustin encourages guests to follow the example of the former Augustinian monks (whose monastery once stood on this very street) by sharing food in these spaces and celebrating the seasons. We were delighted to start with excellent homemade bread with butter, intricately layered kohlrabi, oxtail with dan dam sauce, served with hazelnuts and cilantro, and roasted pumpkin with a mango-amber yogurt sauce, apricots, and dukka. Our heads were already buzzing slightly from the bubbles, expertly selected by the local sommelier, when the hot dishes rolled onto the table. Beef cheek croquettes, roast Beef cheek croquettes, roasted eggplant with shiitake mushrooms, lingonberries, and pine nuts. Everything was perfect–no wonder the restaurant was included in the Michelin Guide in 2024 and received a Bib Gourmand distinction in 2025.
Augustin
Didžioji St. 18, Vilnius
http://www.hotelpacai.com
Smell the Tarot
Before arriving in Vilnius, we knew for sure that we wanted to visit the Smell Like Spell boutique. This brand, which has been around for over 10 years and releases its own collections of candles, incense, and fragrances, is avant-garde while also drawing on the roots of Lithuanian pagan traditions. We weren’t wrong – we spent hours at Marius and Vilius’s place talking about culture, rituals, tarot, and smelling their amazing candles. It’s a magical place with wonderful owners whom you’ll almost always meet here, and a visit to their atmospheric boutique is a real adventure. For instance, standing before a wall of 21 candles dedicated to the Major Arcana of the tarot – we choose two scents: the one that attracts us most and the one that repels us. Based on our choice, the owners give us a brief tarot reading. And we can stock up on the candle that best suits the current phase of our lives (inside the beautiful packaging, you’ll also find a tiny tarot card). Similarly, Vilius guides us through a corner with beautiful, colorful runic candles and incense with spells–selecting those that resonate most with us at that moment. He himself is an excellent tarot reader from a family with a long tradition of divination, and a theater director by profession. Next, she shows us limited-edition candles in beautiful porcelain containers adorned with paintings by M.P. Vilutis. They are produced in limited quantities, and the artwork decorating these candles tells the colorful, ethnic stories of different continents. The prices here are astronomical; this edition is produced primarily for the luxury markets of Dubai and showcased at design fairs in Milan. The boutique’s lower basement houses a workshop – here, you can gather with a group of friends or colleagues to experiment with the alchemy of creating your own candles and scents. We highly recommend it!
Smell Like Spell
Mėsinių g. 7, Vilnius
www.smellslikespells.com
At the Pac Palace
Where to stay in Vilnius? There are plenty of interesting options, and we chose the luxurious, five-star Pacai Hotel, located in a Baroque palace dating back to 1677. Located in the heart of Vilnius’s Old Town – home to the university, the presidential palace, and a wealth of museums, embassies, churches, bookstores, restaurants, and bars – the Pacai perfectly captures the Baroque splendor of this 17th-century district while adding a contemporary touch. Renowned as the grandest residence in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, this magnificent building has been revitalized by a passionate team of local architects and designers. This richly decorated Baroque residence survived the era of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, the reign of the Russian tsars, Napoleon’s invasion of Vilnius, and the Soviet period before being reborn in 2018. Rich historical elements have been masterfully combined with modern design to highlight the delicate, deep tones and elegant materials that accentuate the building’s classic style and complement its relaxing spa. 104 rooms and suites, a cozy restaurant and bar, and three conference rooms pay homage to Lithuania’s rich past and Baltic culture, while steering it toward youth and energy. The hotel’s expansive courtyard is also intriguing, evoking the atmosphere of the historic buildings surrounding the city. Here, guests can enjoy local cultural events, dinners that last well into the night, and much more–making this groundbreaking venue the new cultural hub of Vilnius. It’s one of the most stylish spots in Vilnius–a hotel that feels more like a living history museum than just a place to stay.
Hotel Pacai
Didžioji 7
www.hotelpacai.com
Two Inches Above the Everyday
I walk down a cobblestone street toward a courtyard surrounded by a high wall. I descend into the old cellars to find a secluded labyrinth of tranquility. Just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel, within the Old Town, lies a modern urban spa. This historic complex, which has stood here for about 500 years, once housed a cardinal’s palace, a Carmelite monastery, and then, until the end of the 20th century, a hospital. In the early decades of the 21st century, the buildings stood abandoned until, finally, the idea of revitalizing them emerged. One section has been transformed into a modern spa–beautifully designed, serene, and minimalist. Here, you can escape from the whole world by swimming in the pool or using the sauna complex, indulge in massages or beauty treatments, and finally take a stroll in the Zen garden, lie down in the relaxation area, and savor the wonderful herbal tea “Two Inches Above the Everyday”as I return to the hotel, I truly feel as though I’m floating above the sidewalks. It works!
Boksto Spa
Bokšto g. 6, 01126 Vilnius
www.bokstospa.lt
From dawn to dusk
The restaurant is located in a unique, multifunctional loft space that allows the staff to interact directly with guests, without rigid procedures or pretentious theatrics. Until noon, those rushing to work at nearby advertising agencies and corporations are greeted by a unique interior, excellent coffee, modern Lithuanian cuisine inspired by local harvests, and an ever-changing art space on the second floor. DEMO is the fulfillment of chef Tadas Eidukevičius’s dream of combining gastronomy, people, and art. This deliciously diverse restaurant begins as a café during the day and then transforms into a restaurant on select evenings toward the end of the week. The monochromatic decor features black and gray furniture, black candles, and design elements and plants carefully selected to complement the post-industrial interior – a reflection of culinary experiences that are as bold as they are understated. Black-and-white portraits on the walls, a cosmic ceiling in the bathroom – chef and owner Tadas is wise beyond his years and views food differently than most. His set menus evoke emotions with every dish and are well-paired with interesting, hard-to-find wines, but the meal is also expertly and consistently guided by the witty and easygoing sommelier Alois Herrmann. “We highlight our philosophy through two menus: ‘Author’s’ emphasizes our environmental consciousness, while ‘Farmer’s Table’ focuses on local ingredients. We support local farmers by using misshapen vegetables and employing innovative practices to reduce waste and increase the value of surplus ingredients,” says Tadas, and hearing about his family and his grandparents’ garden as the inspiration for the dishes is a true pleasure and an added treat. You can sense his excellent education and high awareness, as well as the craftsmanship and meticulousness in selecting products. Equally important, however, and palpable on the plate, is the idea and philosophical context, the analysis of traditions and changes in consumption: it’s all much more than just a dinner; it’s an experience and an exchange of ideas. In 2024, the restaurant received 1 Michelin star. Lithuanian bread is known in Poland as dark, heavy, and rich in spices and malt. The bread baked by Tadas and served with butter at the start of the meal has all these characteristics, but with an added fluffy lightness and a wonderful balance of sweetness and dryness: before we left, he wrote down the exact recipe for us and, with a laugh, wished us luck in trying to recreate it at home.
Demoloftas
T. Ševčenkos g. 16A, Vilnius
www.demoloftas.lt/en
Stairs like pleats, a building by Libeskind
Vilnius also has plenty to offer lovers of modern art. First, the MO Museum: one of Vilnius’ newest museums. Built in 2018, it is a gift to the public from contemporary art collectors Danguolė and Viktoras Butkus. It was created to house their private collection of over 5,000 works. Designed by architect Daniel Libeskind in collaboration with the Lithuanian firm Do Architects, it is Studio Libeskind’s first cultural project in the Baltic region. The building itself is a work of modern architectural art and has won several architecture awards. The structure was conceived to serve as a gateway connecting the past with the future, the public with the private; the dramatic staircases – resembling silk pleats on a skirt–that connect the street-level plaza with the open terrace and exhibition halls are particularly striking. The museum is a compact building that possesses all the essential attributes of a world-class institution: educational spaces, a multifunctional concert and lecture hall, offices, a bistro, and a gift shop, next to which the collection storage areas are visible, allowing visitors to glimpse the cataloged and secured–though not entirely hidden artworks. MO is flexible and functional; its spaces remain active even when exhibitions are closed or being changed. Here, visitors can explore exhibitions of modern Lithuanian art, reflecting a wide spectrum of styles and ideas, as well as the major trends in Lithuanian art and its development over the past 60 years. Most of the artists whose works are in the collection are still active and are recognized both in Lithuania and abroad. Here, you can watch films, listen to concerts, and see performances. In a few days, the MO Museum is opening a new exhibition dedicated to Generation Z, featuring several Polish artists. Yet another reason to visit Wolno soon!
Pylimo g. 17, Vilnius, 01141
The Republic of Zarzecze
One of my favorite neighborhoods in the city is the artistic Free Republic of Zarzecze. Before the war, Zarzecze was home to Jewish immigrants and workers; later, it fell into disrepair, which led to an influx of dangerous elements and gave the place a bad reputation. When Lithuania gained independence, many artists took advantage of the cheap apartments that became available there: and in the 1990s, Zarzecze was declared a Free Republic – it has border control, its own flag, churches, and a parliament! It also has its own mermaid and an angel who watches over everyone. Zarzecze is an amazing place to explore, where you can find murals, public art installations, art galleries, and charming bookstores. One of my favorite districts in the city is the artistic Free Republic of Zarzecze, located right in the city center; it is often compared to Montmartre (Paris) and Christiania (Copenhagen) as a hub for artistic, civic, and social movements.
The Republic of Užupis has its own philosophy and forms of expression, its own holidays and calendar. It has its own symbols and flags, border markers, easily granted citizenship and honorary citizens of the Republic around the world, a president, a parliament, a government composed of volunteer ministers, ambassadors, and regulated international relations with the Republic of Lithuania. It has its own newspapers, television, and a signature dish: the Užburger. The establishment of the Republic of Užupis has significantly contributed to the revitalization of the abandoned and dangerous streets of the neighborhood across the river–before the war, Užupis was inhabited by Jewish migrants and workers, later it fell into ruin–and today, thanks to the creation of the Republic, it is a magnetic attraction for tourists and visitors, a place of work and inspiration for creators, which has shaped the unique identity of the community living here and created an open cultural space: the Art Incubator. It is a charming place for a stroll; the beautiful Wilejka River flows melodiously, splashing against the Mermaid Monument; three steps away, the Dalai Lama once sat on the grass delivering a speech; seven steps to the left, Gałczyński lived. Here, there is both the pleasant bustle of a lively city and gentle nature, small streets, pubs, and a market square where, atop a pedestal, an angel blowing a trumpet rises above the district, symbolically calling people to cross the river. The rebellious artistic republic has a one-man army; its symbol is the Holy Hand: a blue palm with a hole in the center, preventing the acceptance of bribes. The bohemian community here also has its own constitution, whose 38 points are written in several languages (including Polish) on a special mirrored wall. Here it is!
A person has the right to live next to the Wilenka River, and the Wilenka River has the right to flow next to a person.
A person has the right to hot water, heating in winter, and a tiled roof.
A person has the right to die, but it is not their duty.
A person has the right to be wrong.
A person has the right to be unique.
A person has the right to love.
A person has the right to be unloved, though not necessarily.
A person has the right to be insignificant and unknown.
A person has the right to be lazy and do nothing.
A person has the right to love a cat and care for it.
A person has the right to care for a dog until death takes one of them.
A dog has the right to be a dog.
A cat does not have to love its owner, but should help them in a time of need.
A person has the right to sometimes not know if they have responsibilities.
A person has the right to doubt, but it is not their duty.
A person has the right to be happy.
A person has the right to be unhappy.
A person has the right to remain silent.
A person has the right to believe.
A person has no right to violence.
A person has the right to comprehend their own insignificance and grandeur.
A person has no right to claim eternity.
A person has the right to understand.
A person has the right to understand nothing.
A person has the right to belong to different nationalities.
A person has the right to celebrate their birthday or not to celebrate it.
A person should remember their name.
A person may share what they have.
A person cannot share what they do not have.
A person has the right to have brothers, sisters, and parents.
A person may be free.
A person is responsible for their own freedom.
A person has the right to cry.
A person has the right to be misunderstood.
A person has no right to shift their guilt onto another.
A person has the right to privacy.
A person has the right to have no rights.
A person has the right not to be afraid.
DO NOT WIN, DO NOT DEFEND YOURSELF, DO NOT SURRENDER.
These final words of the constitution made the greatest impression on me. I recommend memorizing them and putting them into practice.
The Cradle of Utopia
The Užupis Art Incubator is the first and one of the largest spaces in the Baltic states dedicated to collaboration and residencies for visual artists and the creative industries. From the moment you walk in, you feel like you’re in a warm beehive: a lively dialogue buzzes among the people of culture who work and live here across 1,500 square meters of workshops, educational spaces, and galleries. The entrepreneurship of creators, social engagement, artistic innovation, the synergy of art forms, and openness to the national and international community: this is a utopian dream fully and concretely realized. The Incubator’s spaces are home to representatives of many different creative fields, ranging from startups promoting sustainable development to creators combining technology with art, from photographers to painters, from sculptors to textile artists, and from graphic designers and architects to interdisciplinary artists. Everything and everyone is open to the public.
This is where Stranger Things was filmed
Lukiskis is truly one of a kind on a global scale! The old prison complex has been preserved and maintained in a state virtually unchanged for 100 years. Lithuania’s oldest prison is located in the city center, a few hundred meters from the Seimas buildings, in Vilnius’s central business district and along its main thoroughfare: Gediminas Avenue. Transformed into the Lukiškės Prison 2.0 project, it has become a hub for music, contemporary art, design, and culture. A community of 300 artists, musicians, and dancers has begun to create a new, bright, and positive story here, with studios and rehearsal spaces. It is a unique venue for events, a center for culture and entertainment, a modern arts platform for creative people, and one of the most interesting cultural sites in the Baltic region. A large part of the complex is listed on Lithuania’s cultural heritage register due to its unique architecture, which can be explored during a guided tour, and all spaces are adapted for hosting all kinds of events, from conferences in a former deconsecrated church with stunning stained glass and design, to creative team-building activities, to concerts and festivals held in two massive interconnected courtyards. There are bars, cafes, and street food here; the place is bustling with life; musicians are rehearsing; sculptors are working outdoors; and Netflix filmed scenes here for the fourth season of „Stranger Things”. If, on the other hand, you watched the Chernobyl miniseries on HBO, it’s worth knowing that the Lithuanian Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant near Vilnius served as the set, while in Vilnius itself, the production utilized existing and well-preserved monuments of post-Soviet architecture from the Fabianiszki district, built in the late 1980s. Filming also took place at the Palace of Culture and Sports, where the original furniture and distinctive wall decorations remain. If there are fans of brutalism, symmetry, and concrete among us, it’s worth seeing the beautiful Sporto Rumai building, the Seimas, the Ministry of Health building, the Wedding Palace, and the National Opera.
Lukiškės Prison 2.0
Lukiškių skg. 6, Vilnius
A Stroll Through the World of Art
The Vilnius Picture Gallery is a branch of the Lithuanian Art Museum. It is housed in the beautiful and imposing palace of the Counts of Chodkiewicz, whose interiors have been preserved in the late Classicist style, and from whose windows one can see the cobblestone road once traveled by Barbara Radziwiłłówna, Queen of Poland and Grand Duchess of Lithuania. Throughout our stay and tour, the heroine of the story was mentioned repeatedly – a source of historical pride for Lithuanians, honored with a modern monument by Vladas Vildžiūnas on German Street. The permanent exhibition at the Picture Gallery highlights the development of Lithuanian painting since the 16th century. Another interesting branch of this museum is the National Art Gallery: a multifunctional cultural center presenting contemporary Lithuanian visual art of the 20th and 21st centuries. In addition to exhibitions, its mission includes collecting, conducting research, offering new interpretations, and, above all, presenting to the public the contemporary artistic output of Lithuania as a fully-fledged part of the world’s artistic culture.
The Vilnius Picture Gallery
Didžioji g. 4, Vilnius
Bliskość słońca i chmur
“We are currently witnessing a magnificent flourishing of Lithuanian culture and art. Experts claim that Lithuanian poetry is among the most interesting in Europe. Whenever we come across a Lithuanian book, we are surprised by its European character. Lithuanian theater is outstanding (…) Lithuanian music. Lithuanian visual arts. I cannot resist mentioning Stasys Eidrigavičius. This young artist came to Poland ten years ago and, through Polish channels–thanks to our world-renowned school of poster art – rose to become one of the world’s leading graphic artists.” This is what Tadeusz Konwicki wrote about Lithuanian culture. He was born here, in the Vilnius district of Naujoji Vilija, and attended the Sigismund Augustus Gymnasium. After the outbreak of the war, he worked as a railway laborer and an electrician’s assistant at a hospital. A green plaque bearing the writer’s portrait hangs on the wall of the house at 22 Dolna Street (Lithuanian: Žemoji), where he lived as a child under the watchful eye of his guardians, his grandmother Malwina’s sister and his uncle Przemysław Blinstrub. And we can fly over this house in a hot-air balloon: directly over the historic corners of Vilnius, the townhouses, boutiques, cafés, and Trakai Castle, situated on an island in the middle of Lake Galve. Above the monasteries, Orthodox churches, the TV tower, and Gediminas Tower, named after the founder of Vilnius. We read that Gediminas, while hunting, had a prophetic dream in which he saw an iron wolf howling with the power of a thousand animals. A shaman interpreted this dream as a mission to build a city as strong as the wolf, one that would be spoken of for centuries. Obeying the will of the gods, Gediminas united the neighboring villages and began construction of the capital. Lithuania was the European country that held onto its pagan beliefs the longest and was the last to adopt Christianity; traces of rituals, deep spirituality, and Baltic mythology remain very strong. It’s easy to get around Vilnius’s Old Town on foot. Once you reach Cathedral Square in Vilnius, you’ll walk a few kilometers to reach some of the main attractions. It’s a lovely stroll, and sometimes a delightful wander. But Vilnius is also the only capital in Europe that does not prohibit hot-air balloon rides from the Old Town area: it’s worth taking advantage of this opportunity. The hot-air balloon is the oldest and most romantic means of air travel: it’s magical to be able to rise above the world and its affairs, and to look down on your own life from above and with the right distance. Especially the views of the lush nature around Vilnius, the closeness of the clouds and the sun, and the fact that you’ll fly wherever the wind takes you: it’s a wonderful feeling of lightness, surrendering to the power of nature, weightlessness, and surging endorphins. At the end, all flight participants undergo a “baptism” according to old aviation traditions, bestowed. What an adventure!
Text: M0nika Brzywczy, Anna Krolikiewicz, photos: Monika Brzywczy & press materials
This material was produced with the assistance of Go Vilnius.
Special thanks to Raminta Levandraitytė for her help in organizing the trip.
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