Krakow’s new bistro opened few months ago in 17 Brzozowa street is definitely a place where they do not beat around the bush when it comes to feeding. One would think that today in the era of gastro-anomie, a place that offers a decadent cuisine, where the rule is that there are no rules and no holds barred, in other words where all flavor and product combinations are allowed, should be nothing unusual.
The menu is rather concise. Meat and quinto quarto amateurs will feel there like in a culinary heaven. Vegetarians and fans of more standard flavours might be less comfortable. But still, the food is startling and delicious. Especially that the chef in charge in here is Daniel Myśliwiec, an experienced cook who for many years had been the chef of Krakow’s beloved Zazie bistro and who mastered offal dishes to perfection. Now in Zazie owners’ new restaurant in Brzozowa 17 he serves a menu that sometimes might require stepping out of your comfort zone. While the Krakovians have already got used to neck sweetbread in restaurant menus, many likely have forgotten that horse meat, for instance, is not only edible but also delicious, especially when served raw. Daniel Myśliwiec brings it back serving horse tenderloin steak tartare with smoked gorgonzola. Such menu make a burger in perfectly baked brioche with foie gras and Polish black pudding civil to the point.
Foie gras is even served for dessert! It goes with buttermilk ice cream. We suggest you book your table few days in advance. The only “but” that we see is that the portions of the main dishes are sometimes overwhelmingly huge. Finishing the plate of beef neck or parmesan-style tripe is a sweetest torture, especially when your dinner is matched with specially selected natural wine. The wine card was designed by l’enfant terrible of Krakow’s wine scene Kuba Janicki.
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